The Modern Diamond Misconception

When most people shop for a diamond, the first thing they ask about is carat weight.
It’s understandable — bigger sounds better. But in reality, carat measures weight, not beauty.

A poorly proportioned 2ct diamond can look dull, lifeless, and smaller than a perfectly cut 1.5ct stone.
At Hour Time Jewellery, we teach clients to focus on performance, not paper.
Because the way a diamond reflects light — not its weight — is what makes it truly breathtaking.

1. Understanding Proportions

A diamond’s cut grade is a combination of many geometric factors.
When the proportions are ideal, light enters the stone, bounces through its facets, and reflects straight back out of the top — giving you maximum brilliance.

When the proportions are off — too deep or too shallow — light leaks through the sides or bottom, reducing sparkle dramatically.

Key Proportions Include:

• Table percentage: The flat top surface of the diamond. Ideal range: 54–58% for round brilliants.

• Depth percentage: The total height of the diamond relative to its width. Ideal range: 59–62.5%.

• Crown angle: The angle above the girdle. Affects fire and dispersion of colour.

• Pavilion angle: The base of the diamond — crucial for reflection. Too shallow and the stone looks watery; too deep and it looks dark.

These measurements together decide whether a diamond looks alive or flat.

2. The Illusion of Size

Here’s the secret: a well-cut smaller diamond can face-up larger than a poorly cut heavier one.

For example:

• A 2.00ct deep-cut round diamond might measure only 7.9mm across.

• A 1.70ct ideal-cut diamond could measure 8.1mm across — visually bigger, brighter, and often cheaper.

That’s why jewellers who only quote carat size are leaving out half the truth.
The human eye perceives sparkle and surface area — not microscopic differences in weight.

3. Cut Is the Only “C” That Creates Light

The famous “4Cs” — Cut, Colour, Clarity, and Carat — are not equal in importance.
Cut is the only one that determines how a diamond interacts with light.

A perfect colour and flawless clarity can still look dull if the cut is poor.
Conversely, a diamond with minor inclusions but an ideal cut will sparkle far more.

At Hour Time Jewellery, we prioritise cut first, because brilliance can’t be added later — it’s engineered from the start.

4. The Science of Sparkle

When proportions align, three optical effects occur:

• Brilliance: White light reflection — the diamond’s brightness.

• Fire: Dispersion of colour flashes.

• Scintillation: Sparkle pattern when the stone moves.

A well-proportioned diamond balances all three.
It doesn’t just shine — it dances with light. That’s the hallmark of a master cutter.

5. Common Cut Mistakes in the Market

Many retailers downplay cut to sell larger stones at lower cost.
These are the most common shortcuts to watch for:

• Deep cuts: Hide carat weight in depth, making the diamond appear smaller.

• Shallow cuts: Leak light through the bottom — look glassy, lack depth.

• Thick girdles: Add weight where you can’t see it, increasing price without visual gain.

These tactics inflate carat numbers while lowering true quality.

6. Ideal Proportions by Shape

Different diamond shapes have different ideal proportions.
Here’s what to look for in the most popular styles:

Every millimetre of geometry counts.
That’s why we analyse GIA or IGI data before recommending any stone — not just the certificate headline.

7. Why Bigger Isn’t Better

A 3ct diamond that’s dull doesn’t make an impression — it just costs more.
A smaller, perfectly proportioned diamond captures attention instantly.

Luxury isn’t about size — it’s about precision.
When light performance is flawless, the diamond looks alive even in dim lighting.

Our clients often say they get more compliments on their 1.5ct Hour Time stone than on larger retail diamonds — because brilliance wins over bulk.

8. The Hour Time Difference

We don’t just “sell diamonds.” We engineer beauty.
Every Hour Time diamond is analysed under precision tools and light scopes to confirm proportion, symmetry, and polish.
We reject any stone — natural or lab-grown — that sacrifices brilliance for carat weight.

Our promise:
You’ll never be sold a bigger number at the expense of beauty.

9. How to Choose Smarter

When choosing your next diamond:

• Ask for the full cut data — not just “Excellent” on paper.

• Compare face-up dimensions (mm) instead of just carat weight.

• View under natural light, not spotlights.

• Always prioritise ideal cut proportions within your budget — it’s where real value lives.

Because the best diamond isn’t the biggest one in the box — it’s the one that glows before the light hits it.